Deer Leap - Vermont

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11. The Pit and the Pendulum *** 100ft.

The Pit and the Pendulum

Difficulty: 5.9

Protection: G

Description: From the right side of the pit just left of the sawed off stump, climb out left over the pit and up to underneath the overhang following a discontinuous crack system. Turn the roof at the horn and quartz knob, reaching a triangle pocket and a stance. Climb pleasant face and cracks up to a stance on top of a flake. Climb up a few feet past the flake and traverse left on a sweet 5.9 finger crack until you reach a bucket where it joins the TOOT ROUTE. Climb straight up to anchors.

An easier finish would be avoiding the finger crack, continuing straight up the crack system to an easier left leading crack to the anchors.

It is possible to turn the roof farther left on sketchy gear 5.10+ or to traverse to the end of the overhang to join the TOOT ROUTE.

First Ascent: Al Romano, Arni Jr. and Bob Kirbach, mid 60's.

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