Deer Leap - Vermont

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Main Cliff (Left Side)

Every inch of the Main Cliff has been led with natural gear. No fixed gear is to be placed on this side of Deer's Leap. The climbs are listed from left to right.

1 star is definitely worth climbing, 3 stars is as good as any single pitch climb of its grade in the East. Most of the Main Cliff dries within one to three hours after a rain.

Deer Leap Right End

The Right End is host to a bunch of fun, new mixed climbs (not suited for top roping). At first glance it looks loose and chossy but has been cleaned up nicely and produced some very exciting and fun mixed climbs.

All fixed gear to date has been placed by hand on lead with the exception of the rappel/belay anchors. No power drills or rap bolting is allowed.

Routes are described from left to right:

1. Off Width 65ft., 5.6***

2. Monkey Direct 75ft., 5.10***

3. The Monkey 75ft., 5.8***

4. The Bulge or Flying Ground Hog 75 ft., 5.10c***

5. Monther May I? 75ft., 5.10 R/X***

6. Center Crack 75ft., 5.7***

7. Center Crack Direct, 5.8***

8. Toot Route, 5.7+ R **

9. Turkeyland, 5.8+***

10. Autumn Fever, 5.10d, 5.6R***

11. The Pit and Pendulum, 100ft., 5.9***

12. The Tree or Stairway or Standard Route, 5.4**

 

13. Extra Stout, 5.8

14. The Perfect Pint, 5.7

15. Zeb's Route, 5.9R

16. Wild Woman, 75ft. 10a**

17. The Full Monty, 75ft, 5.10***

18. Celibacy, 85ft. 5.9+***

19. The Bat, 110ft. - open project*

20. Spiders from Mars, 5.9 A2 or 5.11d**

21. Project

22. Flat Vision, 5.10c**

23. The Far Side, 5.7+**

24. Lick Tickle and a Spank, 5.10a 

The Upper Tier:

1. Bugs, Sweat and Tears, 5.6, G

2. Clean and Sober, 5.7, G

3. Fly Feeding Fool, 5.5

4. Wish You Were Here, 5.9

 

The Lower Tier:

1. The Hard Way, 5.10* new

2. The Easy Way, 5.10 new

3. Bag of Tricks, 5.7, C2 new

 

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