home > routes > Upper and Lower Tier
The Upper Tier: A small crag just west of the main face. Rap
in or walk around on the old West Side Trail. This crag was
inaccessible for many years due to deadfall that was recently cleaned up.
Climbs listed from left to right.
1. Bugs Sweat and Tears, 5.6, Protection G
Climb the small right
facing crack/corner past the scrubby tree, up a crack to a stance
and a bouldery finish. Gear anchor. ACB Nick Goldsmith & Isa Oehry
6-23-06.
2. Clean And Sober, 5.7, Protection G
Start at a slab in the middle
of the cliff. Climb the slab past a pin to the shallow corner/thin
seam just left. Climb the shallow corner to a stance. Steep face or
easier on the right to anchors. (Direct finish: topping out past the anchors is 10-ish). ACB Nick Goldsmith rope solo 7-3-06. Old pin scar
in the thin seam down low.
3. Fly Feeding Fool, 5.5
A great beginner's lead just right of Clean and Sober. 5.5 face climb past 2 bolts, unprotected 5.2 slab to chains. FA Nick Goldsmith, solo 6/15/07. Nick felt it would be a good beginner's lead so he returned the next day and hand drilled it on the lead, rope solo in the rain, while being eaten by flies...
4. Wish You Were Here, 5.9
At the far right side of the crag is a
thin left rising finger crack. Follow the finger crack until it
peters out, then straight up to the tree. FA Nick Goldsmith Free Solo
1985.
Lower Tier: Access this tier by taking a left at the very beginning of the Deer Leap Climbing Access trail near the parking lot.
1. The Hard Way, 5.10*
Steep face climbing up the left edge of the lower tier. Bolts in place, additional gear needed (cams). Alternatively, you may climb out left on the overhanging arette for a pumpy exciting finish. FA Nick Goldsmith, rope solo, cleaning and drilling on the lead 7/22/07. FFA Isa Oehry and Nick Goldsmith 7/29/07.
2. Project
Climb up the middle of the tier through the challenging roof. Top anchors in place.
3. Bag of Tricks, 5.7, C2
The enticing roof and crack system on the right side of the tier. Climb crack out the roof with the requisite head jam, then crack up past the skinny tree to the trail. FA Nick Goldsmith and Isa Oehry 8/05/07. This climb should go free for some eager monkeys. Have at it folks!